Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is one of the most popular herb crops grown in Ukraine, valued for its versatility as well as its medicinal and culinary properties. This annual plant from the mint family is highly prized for its rich aroma, which comes from its high content of essential oils. There are many varieties of basil, each with its own distinctive taste and fragrance: from classic spicy notes to lemony, minty, and even clove-like tones. Depending on the variety, the leaves may be green, violet, purple, or variegated, smooth or crinkled, small or large.
Ukraine’s climate is well suited to growing basil, provided the right temperature conditions are maintained. The entire country, especially the south, center, and west, can produce a full harvest with timely planting and proper care. However, basil is a heat-loving plant: it cannot tolerate even light frost, so it should only be planted in open ground after temperatures have stabilized above +12°C. The crop performs particularly well in the southern regions—Odesa, Mykolaiv, and Kherson—where the growing season can last from May until the end of September. In central and northern Ukraine, such as Kyiv, Cherkasy, and Sumy regions, the seedling method is recommended.
By variety, basil can be divided into several main groups. The most common in Ukraine are:
Large-leaved green basil (Genovese) — a classic aroma, ideal for salads and sauces.
Purple basil — sharper in flavor, well suited for marinades, vinegar, and meat dishes.
Lemon and cinnamon basil — with a delicate dessert-like aroma, used in tea and desserts.
Compact varieties — convenient for growing on balconies and windowsills.
The choice of variety depends on the purpose of cultivation: fragrant green varieties are best for fresh use, purple ones are better for drying, and lemon or mint types are ideal for teas and drinks.
Basil is a crop that demands plenty of sun and warmth but is sensitive to excess moisture. When choosing a place in the garden, priority should be given to the sunniest, well-ventilated areas protected from cold winds. In shaded spots, the plant becomes leggy, and the leaves lose both color and aroma. The soil should be light, loose, fertile, and well drained. Basil is especially sensitive to compacted soil, waterlogging, and acidity.
Main requirements for the planting site:
lighting for at least 6–8 hours a day;
a flat or slightly raised bed to prevent standing water;
no shade from trees, fences, or buildings;
neutral or slightly alkaline soil reaction (pH 6.0–7.5);
a high content of humus or compost.
Soil preparation begins in autumn: the area is dug over, organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost is added, and weeds are removed. In spring, before planting, the soil is loosened, leveled, and improved with sand or vermiculite for better structure. Five to seven days before transplanting, it is recommended to add ash or a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Fresh manure should be avoided, as it promotes rotting. Basil should also not be planted after crops prone to similar diseases, such as tomatoes, eggplants, or peppers.
Good predecessors for basil include:
cabbage, cucumbers, legumes, carrots, onions;
leafy greens such as lettuce, parsley, and dill;
grains and green manure crops.
After these crops, the soil is richer and the risk of disease is lower. Basil is also successfully grown in greenhouses, where it can be sown even twice in one season if there is enough light and ventilation.
There are two main ways to plant basil: by seedlings and by direct sowing into the ground. The seedling method is considered more reliable and is recommended for regions with unstable spring weather. Seeds are sown in March or early April in containers, trays, or pots. Basil sprouts quickly, but to produce compact bushes it needs warmth, light, and protection from drafts. It should also be remembered that basil roots are very delicate, so pricking out must be done carefully.
Step-by-step method:
Prepare a substrate — a mix of peat, humus, and sand in equal parts.
Sow the seeds 0.5–1 cm deep, water them, and cover with film.
The optimal germination temperature is +22 to +25°C.
Seedlings appear in 5–8 days.
At the stage of 2–3 true leaves, the seedlings are pricked out.
Hardening begins 7–10 days before transplanting.
Seedlings are planted in open ground in May, once the threat of frost has passed. The spacing is 20–25 cm between plants and 30–40 cm between rows. Before transplanting, the holes are watered with warm water, the seedlings are buried up to the cotyledons, the soil is firmed, and then mulched. During the first days, it is important to monitor the temperature: if it falls below +12°C, the plants should be covered with agrofiber.
Direct sowing is possible from late April to early May, but only in the southern regions. The seeds are sown in nests or rows, buried to a depth of 1 cm, watered, and covered with film. Seedlings emerge after 10–14 days. Once they sprout, thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants. This method is simpler but less effective, because the plants develop more slowly and compete less successfully with weeds or sudden temperature fluctuations.
Basil is considered relatively undemanding, but to obtain a dense bush with a rich aroma, steady care is needed. The most important thing is to ensure enough warmth, light, and moisture, while also shaping the bush regularly and feeding it on time. The optimal temperature for growth is +22 to +28°C. With excessive moisture or prolonged rainfall, basil becomes vulnerable to fungal diseases, especially at night when temperatures drop.
Basic rules:
Watering — regular but moderate. Warm water should be used, and watering is best done in the morning or evening. In hot weather, water every other day; in cooler weather, as needed.
Loosening the soil — after each watering, to a depth of 3–5 cm, to improve air access to the roots.
Weeding — essential, because weeds suppress basil growth.
Mulching — helps preserve moisture and protects the roots from overheating.
Bush formation is done by trimming the tops. The first pinching is carried out after 6–8 leaves have formed. After that, the upper shoots or flower clusters are removed every two weeks as soon as they appear. This stimulates branching and increases the concentration of essential oils.
Fertilizing:
10–14 days after transplanting — nitrogen fertilizers such as mullein infusion or herbal tea;
during active growth — complex mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen and potassium content;
before cutting — organic infusions, wood ash, or humates.
Basil harvesting begins when the plant has formed 4–6 pairs of true leaves. To avoid disrupting the bush’s development, the whole plant should not be cut at the root. It is best to harvest the upper parts gradually. With regular trimming, basil regrows actively, making it possible to get up to 4–5 harvest “waves” in one season.
Harvesting is done in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the heat sets in. At this time, the essential oil content in the leaves is at its highest. The greens can be used fresh, dried, or frozen.
Storage methods:
Drying — the leaves are washed, dried, and spread out in the shade. Drying in direct sun is not recommended. They are stored in airtight jars for up to 1 year.
Freezing — basil is chopped and frozen in bags or containers, or blended with oil and frozen in ice cube trays.
Oil or vinegar infusions — sprigs are poured over with olive oil or apple cider vinegar and left for 2–3 weeks.
The next cutting is done after 2–3 weeks. In the southern regions, basil can keep growing until October if given light protection during cold weather. In greenhouses, harvests can be obtained even in autumn.
Basil is fairly resistant, but violations of growing conditions can lead to diseases or pest infestations. The main problems are fungal infections and insects, especially when the planting is overcrowded or too wet.
Diseases:
Fusarium — wilting and darkening of the stems. The affected plant is removed, and the soil is treated with Fundazol.
Blackleg — a typical problem in seedlings. The cause is excess moisture. Prevention includes ventilation, moderate watering, and potassium permanganate treatment.
Gray mold — brown spots and coating on the leaves. Garlic infusions or a weak copper sulfate solution are used.
Pests:
Aphids — curl the leaves and suck the sap. Controlled with a soap solution or ash.
Spider mite — yellow spots and fine webbing. Treated with Fitoverm or Actellik.
Slugs and snails — eat leaves near the ground. Protection includes ash mulch, traps, and sand barriers.
Prevention:
maintaining proper spacing when planting;
ventilating greenhouses;
moderate watering;
removing weeds.
After the season ends, basil is removed from the beds, the soil is dug over, and organic matter is added. If desired, a few plants can be left for seed collection—they need to flower and fully ripen. The harvested seeds are stored until the following spring in a dry, dark place.
